Friday, November 14, 2003
This really probably is the last update here before I return home and to plep!
Last night was interesting. I had the chance to visit another Nepali home, and a very different perspective from the local cadre I visited a few days ago. I was invited by a member of Nepal's small Muslim community, who runs a shop at the hotel where I'm staying.
Islam came to Nepal with the Moghul conquest of India, and even reached the Kathmandu Valley. More recently, with the partition of the Indian subcontinent and particularly the war in Kashmir, Kashmiri Muslims have settled in Nepal, joining the local Muslim community. My host was a Kashmiri, and his wife a Nepali Muslim. Like many of the Kashmiris in Nepal, he is a trader; the Kashmiri community has opened businesses and thrived here. In fact, Nepal is a good place to come to get Kashmiri textiles - not as cheap as you would buy them in Kashmir, but probably much safer.
As it's Ramadan, they were unable to break their fast until sundown, and then food. Delicious meals shared by everybody (in the tradition of Islamic hospitality). Their home consists of one floor of a modern apartment block, in a central but quiet part of town. His wife sold me some of the beads she makes with the women's collective in Patan, and then family photos - brothers and sisters in Manchester and London, and a nephew in Chicago (married to a blonde American!). A picture of Tower Bidge on the way. They are of the liberal 'old school' of Islam - greatly disturbed by how formerly sensible friends have joined the ranks of the devout, the 'greening' of Pakistan, and the rise of other forms of fundamentalism - the Hindu supremacism of the BJP in India, the Marxist fundamentalism of the Maoists and Tamil Tigers (as opposed to the more benign Marxism of the local cadres in places like Bhaktapur, who are working to develop their communities), and what George Soros called the 'supremacist ideology' of the US. All these forms of fundamentalism and intransigence feeding off each other.
He was more sceptical about the prospects for democracy in Nepal than other Nepalese I've met - his position being that education should come before full democracy, and Nepal isn't ready for that until problems of illiteracy, women's equality, the caste system etc. have been addressed.
Eid in Nepal. Part of a site on Nepalese religion.
Today - a good look at the Himalayas, halfway to the Chinese border.
Cultural note - many Hindu women in Nepal wear nose studs, but Newari women never do.
The wealthiest people I've seen in Nepal have been ex-Gurkha soldiers (British army, although increasingly used by other nations, such as Brunei). Despite the controversy over Gurkha pensions being less than British army pensions, they are still way above the Nepalese average, and the Gurkhas have been able to build huge, beautiful homes (which would easily cost half a million pounds or more in the UK - here they cost around 20,000 - 50,000 US$).
Lovesick, homesick or simply sick of Tibet.
Students forced to work for Maoists.
Last night was interesting. I had the chance to visit another Nepali home, and a very different perspective from the local cadre I visited a few days ago. I was invited by a member of Nepal's small Muslim community, who runs a shop at the hotel where I'm staying.
Islam came to Nepal with the Moghul conquest of India, and even reached the Kathmandu Valley. More recently, with the partition of the Indian subcontinent and particularly the war in Kashmir, Kashmiri Muslims have settled in Nepal, joining the local Muslim community. My host was a Kashmiri, and his wife a Nepali Muslim. Like many of the Kashmiris in Nepal, he is a trader; the Kashmiri community has opened businesses and thrived here. In fact, Nepal is a good place to come to get Kashmiri textiles - not as cheap as you would buy them in Kashmir, but probably much safer.
As it's Ramadan, they were unable to break their fast until sundown, and then food. Delicious meals shared by everybody (in the tradition of Islamic hospitality). Their home consists of one floor of a modern apartment block, in a central but quiet part of town. His wife sold me some of the beads she makes with the women's collective in Patan, and then family photos - brothers and sisters in Manchester and London, and a nephew in Chicago (married to a blonde American!). A picture of Tower Bidge on the way. They are of the liberal 'old school' of Islam - greatly disturbed by how formerly sensible friends have joined the ranks of the devout, the 'greening' of Pakistan, and the rise of other forms of fundamentalism - the Hindu supremacism of the BJP in India, the Marxist fundamentalism of the Maoists and Tamil Tigers (as opposed to the more benign Marxism of the local cadres in places like Bhaktapur, who are working to develop their communities), and what George Soros called the 'supremacist ideology' of the US. All these forms of fundamentalism and intransigence feeding off each other.
He was more sceptical about the prospects for democracy in Nepal than other Nepalese I've met - his position being that education should come before full democracy, and Nepal isn't ready for that until problems of illiteracy, women's equality, the caste system etc. have been addressed.
Eid in Nepal. Part of a site on Nepalese religion.
Today - a good look at the Himalayas, halfway to the Chinese border.
Cultural note - many Hindu women in Nepal wear nose studs, but Newari women never do.
The wealthiest people I've seen in Nepal have been ex-Gurkha soldiers (British army, although increasingly used by other nations, such as Brunei). Despite the controversy over Gurkha pensions being less than British army pensions, they are still way above the Nepalese average, and the Gurkhas have been able to build huge, beautiful homes (which would easily cost half a million pounds or more in the UK - here they cost around 20,000 - 50,000 US$).
Lovesick, homesick or simply sick of Tibet.
Students forced to work for Maoists.
Thursday, November 13, 2003
Pleasant morning, visiting a Vishnu temple and some local villages. The carving of Vishnu was being fed milk from the temple's sacred cow.
Tomorrow (Friday) will be busy - more walks in the countryside, followed by a Nepali cultural evening. Saturday I will be heading back to the Kali Temple. So, I may not get chance to update as I will leave early Sunday and the journey back home will take approximately 24 hours (including the stopover).
Therefore, this may be the last update here - check plep early next week!
Bookshops in Nepal will often buy back books at half price. So, you can buy two books, sell them back, and buy another.
Nepali Songs.
Tomorrow (Friday) will be busy - more walks in the countryside, followed by a Nepali cultural evening. Saturday I will be heading back to the Kali Temple. So, I may not get chance to update as I will leave early Sunday and the journey back home will take approximately 24 hours (including the stopover).
Therefore, this may be the last update here - check plep early next week!
Bookshops in Nepal will often buy back books at half price. So, you can buy two books, sell them back, and buy another.
Nepali Songs.
Wednesday, November 12, 2003
A good day. Visited the old Newari town of Bungamati and caught some air in the hills. More about Bungamati Temple here. Bungamati is another of those little medieval towns built around courtyards and ponds, where everything (and I do mean everything) is done out in the open. An interesting visit, followed by a pleasant lunch.
Bungamati: The life world of a Newar community explored through the natural and social life of water.
As well as being a separate ethnic group, the Newaris are considered to be a caste in Hinduism. Brahmins and Chhetriyas are the two highest castes in Nepali Hinduism, but as the main group in the vicinity of the largest city and most developed part of the country, the Newaris have much of the political power here. The upper castes still have a lot of power in the countryside, however, as they are the largest landowning groups.
Bungamati: The life world of a Newar community explored through the natural and social life of water.
As well as being a separate ethnic group, the Newaris are considered to be a caste in Hinduism. Brahmins and Chhetriyas are the two highest castes in Nepali Hinduism, but as the main group in the vicinity of the largest city and most developed part of the country, the Newaris have much of the political power here. The upper castes still have a lot of power in the countryside, however, as they are the largest landowning groups.
Tuesday, November 11, 2003
Templed out. Today did a tourist thing and visited Pashupatinath Shiva Temple, Swayambhunath Stupa and Boudha Stupa. Of course, every visitor to Nepal has to visit these places but there's a not-so-subtle tourist trap element to it all.
More tomorrow, or Thursday.
'This is not a school, it is a cemetery.' (Nepali Times) 'Bhubaneswar Sharma, a grade four student, did not know who had come to his school that day and wasn’t worried. A while later, he learned that security forces had arrived in the nearby village, but the rebels convinced those present that it was their comrades. The Maoists had already begun their ‘people’s resistance program’ after ending all classes. The rebel’s area commander Agni Sharma, who was the chief guest, left immediately after the program, probably after being tipped off about the army’s presence. Suddenly, soldiers in civvies opened fire inside the school compound. There was pandemonium with students trying to flee or hide below their desks. Four students and six Maoists were killed. The army says rebels tried to pass themselves off as students by using their uniforms ... '
Fighting for a foreign queen. 'Of the 246 young men gathered at a school field in Those Bazar here recently, only one or two stand a chance of fulfilling their dream of fighting in a foreign army. The are two more rounds of selection, and the physical tests are gruelling. Some 25,000 Nepalis appeared for the selection this year, of these not more than 230 are finally recruited into Britain’s Gurkha regiments. '
Refugees doubt the new repatriation agreement between Nepal and Bhutan will ease their way home.
'Shanti Ram Acharya has 12 dependants, all living at Khudunabari camp. Though all of them have been ‘lucky’ to make it to Category I (bonafide Bhutani), he is having second thoughts about applying for voluntary repatriation that begins on 15 February 2004.
“We wish we could go back, but there are a lot of uncertainties. Yes, we have been assured that we will be given citizenship immediately after repatriation, but what about land, houses and property that we lost?” he asks.'
“The UN is ready to help in any way.” 'Matthew Kahane has spent 33 years within the United Nations. The recently-appointed UN Resident Coordinator in Nepal talked to Nepali Times about how the world body could help broker peace in Nepal, oversee Bhutani refugee repatriation and restart development.'
Unified command deployed in highways.
More tomorrow, or Thursday.
'This is not a school, it is a cemetery.' (Nepali Times) 'Bhubaneswar Sharma, a grade four student, did not know who had come to his school that day and wasn’t worried. A while later, he learned that security forces had arrived in the nearby village, but the rebels convinced those present that it was their comrades. The Maoists had already begun their ‘people’s resistance program’ after ending all classes. The rebel’s area commander Agni Sharma, who was the chief guest, left immediately after the program, probably after being tipped off about the army’s presence. Suddenly, soldiers in civvies opened fire inside the school compound. There was pandemonium with students trying to flee or hide below their desks. Four students and six Maoists were killed. The army says rebels tried to pass themselves off as students by using their uniforms ... '
Fighting for a foreign queen. 'Of the 246 young men gathered at a school field in Those Bazar here recently, only one or two stand a chance of fulfilling their dream of fighting in a foreign army. The are two more rounds of selection, and the physical tests are gruelling. Some 25,000 Nepalis appeared for the selection this year, of these not more than 230 are finally recruited into Britain’s Gurkha regiments. '
Refugees doubt the new repatriation agreement between Nepal and Bhutan will ease their way home.
'Shanti Ram Acharya has 12 dependants, all living at Khudunabari camp. Though all of them have been ‘lucky’ to make it to Category I (bonafide Bhutani), he is having second thoughts about applying for voluntary repatriation that begins on 15 February 2004.
“We wish we could go back, but there are a lot of uncertainties. Yes, we have been assured that we will be given citizenship immediately after repatriation, but what about land, houses and property that we lost?” he asks.'
“The UN is ready to help in any way.” 'Matthew Kahane has spent 33 years within the United Nations. The recently-appointed UN Resident Coordinator in Nepal talked to Nepali Times about how the world body could help broker peace in Nepal, oversee Bhutani refugee repatriation and restart development.'
Unified command deployed in highways.
Monday, November 10, 2003
Today was an interesting day.
First of all, another trip to Bhaktapur and a visit to a Nepali home. The house belonged to a new friend active in local politics and development projects in the town. To describe the home :- a 200 year old cottage in a square that is so typical of Newari towns. Built on three levels - the store room on the ground floor, the kitchen on the first floor and the bedroom on the second floor. Small rooms (to conserve heat I think - my last house was of a similar size and age). The levels were connected by uneven wooden staircases, rather difficult to navigate in the dark. Cup of tea and a chat about politics (Nepalese and British), the chances of the CPN (UML), China, issues of caste and race (caste is always a touchy subject in Nepal), Sri Lanka, the war in Iraq, tourism in Nepal (despite my earlier misgivings about beggars etc., he was convinced tourism was a good thing for Nepal, both economically and culturally), etc. Useful and informative.
Then a trip to a small-scale rice paper manufacturer, providing employment for about ten people. They make the most amazing pieces of craft as well, especially things such as pocket diaries (with every page different). Also kites - kiteflying is a very popular pastime here. Also recycled art. All painstakingly handpainted. Very reminiscent of some of the items for sale at Indigo Arts. I'm convinced that many people would pay good money for this sort of thing, and it'd be good to see them getting a web presence soon.
Then up into the foothills for a good look at a fourth century Vishnu temple , then back home.
The Newari pagoda style was copied by China and Japan. One interesting point - temples for most of the Hindu gods are square (I think Jung saw the square as an expression of wholeness, or the Self). The major exception is Krishna, who can be housed in octagonal temples.
I'll be back in the UK on 17th November (another long stopover in Abu Dhabi), though will try to update again before then.
First of all, another trip to Bhaktapur and a visit to a Nepali home. The house belonged to a new friend active in local politics and development projects in the town. To describe the home :- a 200 year old cottage in a square that is so typical of Newari towns. Built on three levels - the store room on the ground floor, the kitchen on the first floor and the bedroom on the second floor. Small rooms (to conserve heat I think - my last house was of a similar size and age). The levels were connected by uneven wooden staircases, rather difficult to navigate in the dark. Cup of tea and a chat about politics (Nepalese and British), the chances of the CPN (UML), China, issues of caste and race (caste is always a touchy subject in Nepal), Sri Lanka, the war in Iraq, tourism in Nepal (despite my earlier misgivings about beggars etc., he was convinced tourism was a good thing for Nepal, both economically and culturally), etc. Useful and informative.
Then a trip to a small-scale rice paper manufacturer, providing employment for about ten people. They make the most amazing pieces of craft as well, especially things such as pocket diaries (with every page different). Also kites - kiteflying is a very popular pastime here. Also recycled art. All painstakingly handpainted. Very reminiscent of some of the items for sale at Indigo Arts. I'm convinced that many people would pay good money for this sort of thing, and it'd be good to see them getting a web presence soon.
Then up into the foothills for a good look at a fourth century Vishnu temple , then back home.
The Newari pagoda style was copied by China and Japan. One interesting point - temples for most of the Hindu gods are square (I think Jung saw the square as an expression of wholeness, or the Self). The major exception is Krishna, who can be housed in octagonal temples.
I'll be back in the UK on 17th November (another long stopover in Abu Dhabi), though will try to update again before then.
Sunday, November 09, 2003
La Folia. 'An effort to list all derivations and interpretations of the famous theme La Folia.' Via MeFi.
The Wingnut Debate Dictionary. Thanks due to madamjujujive.
One notable cultural difference between Nepal and Western countries: 'comfort' words such as 'please' or 'thankyou' are rarely used (there is a word for thankyou - 'dhanyabad' - but it is generally used rarely, and on quite formal occasions). This isn't rude, it's just that the cultural 'rules of conduct' are quite different. (Nepalis who speak English use such words with foreigners, presumably to make them feel comfortable, but unless their English is very good, they aren't always sure about the context of those words, and can seem a little bemused when they are used in return; this is a concept which goes beyond mere dictionary translation).
5000 years of Indian art. A series of articles and images on Indian art and aesthetics.
The concept of beauty in India.
The unparallelled beauty of the goddess Parvati.
To those who may have been concerned about the animal sacrifices yesterday : the whole procedure (the animal was throttled, then had its throat cut, in the open air) was over very quickly, in a second in most cases. This is presumably more humane than factory farming, or foxhunting.
Radio Nepal.
Nepalese killed in shelling in Jammu-Kashmir; Maoists killed in skirmishes; Nepalis held in USA.
5000 years of Indian art. A series of articles and images on Indian art and aesthetics.
The concept of beauty in India.
The unparallelled beauty of the goddess Parvati.
To those who may have been concerned about the animal sacrifices yesterday : the whole procedure (the animal was throttled, then had its throat cut, in the open air) was over very quickly, in a second in most cases. This is presumably more humane than factory farming, or foxhunting.
Radio Nepal.
Nepalese killed in shelling in Jammu-Kashmir; Maoists killed in skirmishes; Nepalis held in USA.
Saturday, November 08, 2003
May not be around for the next couple of days - more daytrips planned.
Today I went up into the Himalayas. The ethnic groups are generally different from the Newaris of the Kathmandu Valley; whereas Newaris
have a distinctive, communal style of architecture where houses
are built around the town square, other ethnic groups live in houses
which are more spread out. There is also a distinctive style of painted houses, somewhat reminiscent of the painted houses of Africa.
Painted houses of Nepal and India.
On the way back, there was time to visit the Kali Festival where Hindus from all over the Kathmandu Valley of every race come to worship Kali, the goddess of destruction. There were long queues of people sacrificing fruit, flowers, rice, spirits, chickens and goats to the goddess. Apart from the heavy security presence, and large crowds in front of the temple, the atmosphere was quite peaceful.
Festivals of Nepal.
Finally, a visit to a Tibetan refugee camp, built in 1960 (the main business being fair trade carpets).
Madhubhani painting, 'an on-line exhibit of folk paintings by women artists who live in the Madhubani district of northern India' (but also in parts of Nepal).
Janakpur Women's Development Centre. 'Janakpur is now famous for its colorful paintings on paper, yet this "tradition" began in the first days of the JWDC when, under a grant from the Ella Lyman Cabot Trust, a talented group of women were selected to learn how to transfer their wall designs to paper. They travelled from their villages to the Center in Janakpur where, without losing their originality, they developed skills in composition as well as in the use of color and line.'
Far from home. The Gurkhas in the British Army.
Nepali Times: Preserving Gurkha history.
The MoD's history of the Gurkhas. 'Robert Clive's decisive victory at the Battle of Plassey in 1757 firmly established British supremecy in India thereby opening the door for expansion of the Honourable East India Company. Some 10 years after Plassey the British started to come into contact with a unique and vigorous power on the northern borders of its newly won territories in Bengal and Bihar. This power was the city-state of Gorkha led by its dynamic King Prithwi Narayan Shah. Gorkha was a feudal hill village in what is now western Nepal, the village from which the Gurkha takes its name. Prithwi Narayan Shah and his successors grew so powerful that they overran the whole of the hill country from the Kashmir border in the west to Bhutan in the east. Eventually, as a result of boundary disputes and repeated raids by Gurkha columns into British territory, the Governor General declared war on Nepal in 1814. After two long and bloody campaigns a Peace Treaty was signed at Sagauli in 1816. '
Each year, 20,000 young men compete for just 200 places in the Gurkha Regiment.
Today I went up into the Himalayas. The ethnic groups are generally different from the Newaris of the Kathmandu Valley; whereas Newaris
have a distinctive, communal style of architecture where houses
are built around the town square, other ethnic groups live in houses
which are more spread out. There is also a distinctive style of painted houses, somewhat reminiscent of the painted houses of Africa.
Painted houses of Nepal and India.
On the way back, there was time to visit the Kali Festival where Hindus from all over the Kathmandu Valley of every race come to worship Kali, the goddess of destruction. There were long queues of people sacrificing fruit, flowers, rice, spirits, chickens and goats to the goddess. Apart from the heavy security presence, and large crowds in front of the temple, the atmosphere was quite peaceful.
Festivals of Nepal.
Finally, a visit to a Tibetan refugee camp, built in 1960 (the main business being fair trade carpets).
Madhubhani painting, 'an on-line exhibit of folk paintings by women artists who live in the Madhubani district of northern India' (but also in parts of Nepal).
Janakpur Women's Development Centre. 'Janakpur is now famous for its colorful paintings on paper, yet this "tradition" began in the first days of the JWDC when, under a grant from the Ella Lyman Cabot Trust, a talented group of women were selected to learn how to transfer their wall designs to paper. They travelled from their villages to the Center in Janakpur where, without losing their originality, they developed skills in composition as well as in the use of color and line.'
Far from home. The Gurkhas in the British Army.
Nepali Times: Preserving Gurkha history.
The MoD's history of the Gurkhas. 'Robert Clive's decisive victory at the Battle of Plassey in 1757 firmly established British supremecy in India thereby opening the door for expansion of the Honourable East India Company. Some 10 years after Plassey the British started to come into contact with a unique and vigorous power on the northern borders of its newly won territories in Bengal and Bihar. This power was the city-state of Gorkha led by its dynamic King Prithwi Narayan Shah. Gorkha was a feudal hill village in what is now western Nepal, the village from which the Gurkha takes its name. Prithwi Narayan Shah and his successors grew so powerful that they overran the whole of the hill country from the Kashmir border in the west to Bhutan in the east. Eventually, as a result of boundary disputes and repeated raids by Gurkha columns into British territory, the Governor General declared war on Nepal in 1814. After two long and bloody campaigns a Peace Treaty was signed at Sagauli in 1816. '
Each year, 20,000 young men compete for just 200 places in the Gurkha Regiment.
Friday, November 07, 2003
Tomorrow I will be going for a day trip into the Himalayas! So, I'll update again in a few days.
There are many, many Internet outlets in Kathmandu. The connections are mostly pretty slow and a bit spotty, but there's no problem getting online. A lot of them also serve as 'phone booths' (in the one I'm sitting in at the moment, there's a queue of people who want to use a phone to call relatives); and also photocopying and laminating shops.
As everyone knows, Nepal used to form part of the Asian coastline, until what is now the Indian subcontinent collided with the Asian mainland, throwing up the Himalayan range. Ammonite fossils from this distant past can still be found in the Himalayas. These ammonites have a religious significance in parts of the Himalayas.
The Himalayas and Nepal: Some Visual Evidences of the Himalayan Formation. 'Eternal Flame of Muktinath Temple '
'There is a blue flame burning inside a Buddhist temple situated above the Kali Gandaki valley. It has been continuously burning for many years. The people call this flame "the Eternal Flame of God". '
'This is actually a natural gas seepage coming from the layer of slate that formed ammonite fossils. The gas was formed when the slate layers were compressed by tectonic forces and leaked through the rocks. '
Saligrams (or ammonites). 'Sri Saligrams is considered the direct symbol of Lord Vishnu, They are found only in Mukti chhetra and Damodar Kunda (north-west of Nepal). '
Prince Charles: I am royal at centre of rumours. With a little intelligent Googling, it's not too hard to work out what these rumours are.
There are many, many Internet outlets in Kathmandu. The connections are mostly pretty slow and a bit spotty, but there's no problem getting online. A lot of them also serve as 'phone booths' (in the one I'm sitting in at the moment, there's a queue of people who want to use a phone to call relatives); and also photocopying and laminating shops.
As everyone knows, Nepal used to form part of the Asian coastline, until what is now the Indian subcontinent collided with the Asian mainland, throwing up the Himalayan range. Ammonite fossils from this distant past can still be found in the Himalayas. These ammonites have a religious significance in parts of the Himalayas.
The Himalayas and Nepal: Some Visual Evidences of the Himalayan Formation. 'Eternal Flame of Muktinath Temple '
'There is a blue flame burning inside a Buddhist temple situated above the Kali Gandaki valley. It has been continuously burning for many years. The people call this flame "the Eternal Flame of God". '
'This is actually a natural gas seepage coming from the layer of slate that formed ammonite fossils. The gas was formed when the slate layers were compressed by tectonic forces and leaked through the rocks. '
Saligrams (or ammonites). 'Sri Saligrams is considered the direct symbol of Lord Vishnu, They are found only in Mukti chhetra and Damodar Kunda (north-west of Nepal). '
Prince Charles: I am royal at centre of rumours. With a little intelligent Googling, it's not too hard to work out what these rumours are.
Tomorrow I will be going for a day trip into the Himalayas! So, I'll update again in a few days.
There are many, many Internet outlets in Kathmandu. The connections are mostly pretty slow and a bit spotty, but there's no problem getting online. A lot of them also serve as 'phone booths' (in the one I'm sitting in at the moment, there's a queue of people who want to use a phone to call relatives); and also photocopying and laminating shops.
As everyone knows, Nepal used to form part of the Asian coastline, until what is now the Indian subcontinent collided with the Asian mainland, throwing up the Himalayan range. Ammonite fossils from this distant past can still be found in the Himalayas. These ammonites have a religious significance in parts of the Himalayas.
The Himalayas and Nepal: Some Visual Evidences of the Himalayan Formation. 'Eternal Flame of Muktinath Temple '
'There is a blue flame burning inside a Buddhist temple situated above the Kali Gandaki valley. It has been continuously burning for many years. The people call this flame "the Eternal Flame of God". '
'This is actually a natural gas seepage coming from the layer of slate that formed ammonite fossils. The gas was formed when the slate layers were compressed by tectonic forces and leaked through the rocks. '
Saligrams (or ammonites). 'Sri Saligrams is considered the direct symbol of Lord Vishnu, They are found only in Mukti chhetra and Damodar Kunda (north-west of Nepal). '
Prince Charles: I am royal at centre of rumours. With a little intelligent Googling, it's not too hard to work out what these rumours are.
There are many, many Internet outlets in Kathmandu. The connections are mostly pretty slow and a bit spotty, but there's no problem getting online. A lot of them also serve as 'phone booths' (in the one I'm sitting in at the moment, there's a queue of people who want to use a phone to call relatives); and also photocopying and laminating shops.
As everyone knows, Nepal used to form part of the Asian coastline, until what is now the Indian subcontinent collided with the Asian mainland, throwing up the Himalayan range. Ammonite fossils from this distant past can still be found in the Himalayas. These ammonites have a religious significance in parts of the Himalayas.
The Himalayas and Nepal: Some Visual Evidences of the Himalayan Formation. 'Eternal Flame of Muktinath Temple '
'There is a blue flame burning inside a Buddhist temple situated above the Kali Gandaki valley. It has been continuously burning for many years. The people call this flame "the Eternal Flame of God". '
'This is actually a natural gas seepage coming from the layer of slate that formed ammonite fossils. The gas was formed when the slate layers were compressed by tectonic forces and leaked through the rocks. '
Saligrams (or ammonites). 'Sri Saligrams is considered the direct symbol of Lord Vishnu, They are found only in Mukti chhetra and Damodar Kunda (north-west of Nepal). '
Prince Charles: I am royal at centre of rumours. With a little intelligent Googling, it's not too hard to work out what these rumours are.
Thursday, November 06, 2003
Yesterday I went to Patan and Bhaktapur, the other two big towns in the Kathmandu Valley. Bhaktapur in particular was well worth the visit; it's a few miles from Kathmandu, a medieval town fairly off the beaten track (no electricity). Patan had many many interesting temples and other features too, as you can see. My guide was a secondary school student in his twenties, originally from Lumbini, in the far south of Nepal. He had moved to the Kathmandu Valley to study and work. (And they are feeling the effects of the war and the subsequent downturn in visitors to Nepal).
In the Kathmandu Valley, there are many many children who make a living selling trinkets or acting as guides (yesterday I was followed around by a small boy who was exceptionally bright and knew a great deal about the different styles of architecture and temple in Patan; he could also speak five languages). Of course, this brings in good money for their families, but shouldn't they be in school?
One interesting freature of Newari architecture is the way the towns have developed - essentially as town squares which grew into one another.
In central Kathmandu, there is a street basically devoted to selling meat and fish, somewhat reminiscent of the medieval shambles.
The Newari style is not the only type of architecture in the Kathmandu Valley; Indian and Tibetan styles are also very much in evidence.
Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust.
Patan Museum.
The Legend of the Yeti.
Yeti@Home. 'YETI@Home is a scientific experiment that harnesses the power of hundreds of thousands of Internet-connected computers in the search for giant ape-like creatures (YETI). We, the YETI team members who founded this experiment, are experts in the field of cryptozoology (the study of animals that do not exist).'
242 species of birds found in Banke.
Americans in Nepal warn of rebels; UK army chief on Nepal visit ; Maoists say US making Nepal a base to watch Indian, China.
In the Kathmandu Valley, there are many many children who make a living selling trinkets or acting as guides (yesterday I was followed around by a small boy who was exceptionally bright and knew a great deal about the different styles of architecture and temple in Patan; he could also speak five languages). Of course, this brings in good money for their families, but shouldn't they be in school?
One interesting freature of Newari architecture is the way the towns have developed - essentially as town squares which grew into one another.
In central Kathmandu, there is a street basically devoted to selling meat and fish, somewhat reminiscent of the medieval shambles.
The Newari style is not the only type of architecture in the Kathmandu Valley; Indian and Tibetan styles are also very much in evidence.
Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust.
Patan Museum.
The Legend of the Yeti.
Yeti@Home. 'YETI@Home is a scientific experiment that harnesses the power of hundreds of thousands of Internet-connected computers in the search for giant ape-like creatures (YETI). We, the YETI team members who founded this experiment, are experts in the field of cryptozoology (the study of animals that do not exist).'
242 species of birds found in Banke.
Americans in Nepal warn of rebels; UK army chief on Nepal visit ; Maoists say US making Nepal a base to watch Indian, China.
Tuesday, November 04, 2003
'The photo gallery features images from Nepal. This gallery will grow with time to provide a window to the various dimensions of Nepal - cultural, social, religious, ethnic, and geographic. As the photo gallery evolves, we will provide background information for each image. ' Via NepalNet, 'an electronic networking for sustainable development in Nepal'.
Tomorrow I am going to visit Patan, and will hopefully be back online in a couple of days.
Nepal: Bringing the bank to the village. Microfinance in Nepal. 'How would a $40 loan change your life? For Sabitra Karna, such a loan transformed her hardscrabble existence into a future filled with new hopes and possibilities.'
'Three years ago, Ms. Karna joined the Ram Janaki Women Centre in Kolaharuwa Village on the plains of Sunsari District in eastern Nepal. She borrowed 3,000 Nepali rupees ($39) and bought two calves.'
'After raising the calves, she sold them for 5,000 Nepali rupees ($65) and used the profits to care for her three children and build a small hut on borrowed land. '
'Her loan repaid, her confidence strengthened, and her creditworthiness established, Ms. Karna is now thinking big ... '
The Newari alphabet. 'The Ranjana script, which is also known as Kutila or Lantsa, is one of the many alphabets derived from the Brahmi script, and has existed since at least 953 AD. It was used until the mid-20th century for ceremonially important manuscripts and is still used for posters, wedding invitations, greeting cards and banners.
' It is one of the few syllabic alphabets in the world which is actually widely used (other examples are Khmer and the Japanese hiragana and katakana. Via Omniglot, a guide to written language.
The story of the saree. 'The Indian Saree (a.k.a. Sari, Seere, Sadi) boasts of oldest existence in the sartorial world. It is more than 5000 years old! It is mentioned in Vedas, the oldest existing (surviving) literature (3000 B.C.) Patterns of dress change throughout the world now and then but, the Sari has survived because it is the main wear of rural India. 75% of the population (now a billion as per official estimate) wear versatile sari. We can certainly call this cloth versatile because it could be worn as shorts, trousers, flowing gown-like or convenient skirt-wise--all without a single stitch!'
NCM Business Magazine: Microfinance in Nepal. 'During the last decade of the 20th century, it has been accepted that micro-finance is one of the most significant contributors on poverty alleviation. In the developing country like Nepal, it has no doubt a prominent role, to accomplish the same mission. It was first used in Bangladesh by a person named "Younus" who used to provide loans to the poor people without any collateral and the interest rate was much less. The repayments were available to over 97% of the total loan. Even the interest would be provided as crops and fruits. '
'Micro-finance is the banking term used to refer to different methods for giving poor people access to financial services. More than 20 years' experience of micro-financing around the world shows that poor people with little education are reliable borrowers who invest wisely and are willing to save if given the chance. '
Historical and philosophical origins of Tibet. 'THE SUBLIME Avalokiteshvara, having conferred layperson's vows upon a magical monkey, dispatched him to meditate in the snowy realm of Tibet. There, beside a black rock, while he was devotedly contemplating loving-kindness, compassion, enlightenment-thought and the profound Dharma of emptiness, a rock-ogress, suffering on account of her karma, approached him, and before she departed, made manifold indications of her carnal desire for him. Later, disguised as a woman, the ogress said to the monkey, 'Let us be married!' But the monkey replied, 'As I am a disciple of the sublime Avalokiteshvara, it would contravene my vows to become your husband'. 'If you reject me, I will kill myself!' exclaimed the rock-ogress as she threw herself at the monkey's feet. On rising, she addressed these words to him ... '
World Tibet Network News: "Some 3 Thousand Tibetans enter Nepal annually". (More at Tibet.ca.).
Indigo Gallery, Kathmandu. 'Twenty years ago Indigo Gallery was founded to foster the traditional arts of Nepal, particularly the Newar school of painting as exemplified in the ancient scrolls known in Newari as "paubha". A recent expansion into an old Rana/Newar private home has enabled the gallery to expand into the field of sculpture, taking advantage of gallery owner James Giambrone's 25 years of experience working with the traditional bronze casters of Patan. The gallery has hosted exhibitions of modern painting, sculpture, photos and textiles; recently the gallery has added a series of evening slide shows and lectures on diverse subjects pertaining to the art and culture of the Himalayan region. We have recently moved into new space and now carry bronze and repousse works of art, photographs, Wangden Carpets and ethnographic arts. '
Kathmandu Post: A celebrity saint. Article about Mother Teresa.
Nepal: Bringing the bank to the village. Microfinance in Nepal. 'How would a $40 loan change your life? For Sabitra Karna, such a loan transformed her hardscrabble existence into a future filled with new hopes and possibilities.'
'Three years ago, Ms. Karna joined the Ram Janaki Women Centre in Kolaharuwa Village on the plains of Sunsari District in eastern Nepal. She borrowed 3,000 Nepali rupees ($39) and bought two calves.'
'After raising the calves, she sold them for 5,000 Nepali rupees ($65) and used the profits to care for her three children and build a small hut on borrowed land. '
'Her loan repaid, her confidence strengthened, and her creditworthiness established, Ms. Karna is now thinking big ... '
The Newari alphabet. 'The Ranjana script, which is also known as Kutila or Lantsa, is one of the many alphabets derived from the Brahmi script, and has existed since at least 953 AD. It was used until the mid-20th century for ceremonially important manuscripts and is still used for posters, wedding invitations, greeting cards and banners.
' It is one of the few syllabic alphabets in the world which is actually widely used (other examples are Khmer and the Japanese hiragana and katakana. Via Omniglot, a guide to written language.
The story of the saree. 'The Indian Saree (a.k.a. Sari, Seere, Sadi) boasts of oldest existence in the sartorial world. It is more than 5000 years old! It is mentioned in Vedas, the oldest existing (surviving) literature (3000 B.C.) Patterns of dress change throughout the world now and then but, the Sari has survived because it is the main wear of rural India. 75% of the population (now a billion as per official estimate) wear versatile sari. We can certainly call this cloth versatile because it could be worn as shorts, trousers, flowing gown-like or convenient skirt-wise--all without a single stitch!'
NCM Business Magazine: Microfinance in Nepal. 'During the last decade of the 20th century, it has been accepted that micro-finance is one of the most significant contributors on poverty alleviation. In the developing country like Nepal, it has no doubt a prominent role, to accomplish the same mission. It was first used in Bangladesh by a person named "Younus" who used to provide loans to the poor people without any collateral and the interest rate was much less. The repayments were available to over 97% of the total loan. Even the interest would be provided as crops and fruits. '
'Micro-finance is the banking term used to refer to different methods for giving poor people access to financial services. More than 20 years' experience of micro-financing around the world shows that poor people with little education are reliable borrowers who invest wisely and are willing to save if given the chance. '
Historical and philosophical origins of Tibet. 'THE SUBLIME Avalokiteshvara, having conferred layperson's vows upon a magical monkey, dispatched him to meditate in the snowy realm of Tibet. There, beside a black rock, while he was devotedly contemplating loving-kindness, compassion, enlightenment-thought and the profound Dharma of emptiness, a rock-ogress, suffering on account of her karma, approached him, and before she departed, made manifold indications of her carnal desire for him. Later, disguised as a woman, the ogress said to the monkey, 'Let us be married!' But the monkey replied, 'As I am a disciple of the sublime Avalokiteshvara, it would contravene my vows to become your husband'. 'If you reject me, I will kill myself!' exclaimed the rock-ogress as she threw herself at the monkey's feet. On rising, she addressed these words to him ... '
World Tibet Network News: "Some 3 Thousand Tibetans enter Nepal annually". (More at Tibet.ca.).
Indigo Gallery, Kathmandu. 'Twenty years ago Indigo Gallery was founded to foster the traditional arts of Nepal, particularly the Newar school of painting as exemplified in the ancient scrolls known in Newari as "paubha". A recent expansion into an old Rana/Newar private home has enabled the gallery to expand into the field of sculpture, taking advantage of gallery owner James Giambrone's 25 years of experience working with the traditional bronze casters of Patan. The gallery has hosted exhibitions of modern painting, sculpture, photos and textiles; recently the gallery has added a series of evening slide shows and lectures on diverse subjects pertaining to the art and culture of the Himalayan region. We have recently moved into new space and now carry bronze and repousse works of art, photographs, Wangden Carpets and ethnographic arts. '
Kathmandu Post: A celebrity saint. Article about Mother Teresa.
Monday, November 03, 2003
Community Arts Project: Readings in Public Art. From around the world, from the UK and US to Kathmandu.
Great pictures of the Himalayas. 'My name is Mogens Larsen and I´ve been trekking four times in the Himalayas - two times in India and two times in Nepal. The photos you see on this site are all from these treks. '
Gods and goddesses of Nepal. Indra, Bhairab, Saraswati and the rest.
Introduction to Hinduism. Pictures and articles about the major deities.
More on the caste system in Nepal.
The Kathmandu Post. A 'bandh' is a general strike; for the last two days, the Maoists have organised a 'bandh' in the Pokhara area.
Nepal News.
One more thing of note - much of Nepal is without electricity, even in the Kathmandu area. To a Westerner's eyes, the sight of looking out over such a large city at dusk and seeing much of it dark is strangely eerie.
Oh, and the Nepalese currency is impressive-looking indeed - images of the 'pink rupee' here.
Another update in a few days!
Gods and goddesses of Nepal. Indra, Bhairab, Saraswati and the rest.
Introduction to Hinduism. Pictures and articles about the major deities.
More on the caste system in Nepal.
The Kathmandu Post. A 'bandh' is a general strike; for the last two days, the Maoists have organised a 'bandh' in the Pokhara area.
Nepal News.
One more thing of note - much of Nepal is without electricity, even in the Kathmandu area. To a Westerner's eyes, the sight of looking out over such a large city at dusk and seeing much of it dark is strangely eerie.
Oh, and the Nepalese currency is impressive-looking indeed - images of the 'pink rupee' here.
Another update in a few days!
The Caste System in Nepal. 'One integral aspect of Nepalese society is the existence of the Hindu caste system, modeled after the ancient and orthodox Brahmanic system of the Indian plains. The caste system did not exist prior to the arrival of Indo-Aryans. Its establishment became the basis of the emergence of the feudalistic economic structure of Nepal: the high-caste Hindus began to appropriate lands-- particularly lowlands that were more easily accessible, more cultivatable, and more productive--including those belonging to the existing tribal people, and introduced the system of individual ownership ... '
Kathmandu Durbar Square. Article and images. 'The Kathmandu Durbar Square holds the palaces of the Malla and Shah kings who ruled over the city. Along with these palaces, the square also surrounds quadrangles revealing courtyards and temples. The square is presently known as Hanuman Dhoka, a name derived from the statue of Hanuman, the monkey devotee of Lord Ram, near the entrance of the palace ... '
Greetings from Kathmandu.
The trip over was quite pleasant, despite six hour stopover in Abu Dhabi. Abu Dhabi airport was pleasant enough, and rather manic even at 2 in the morning (something to do with Ramadan perhaps?), but it was a stopover I could have done without.
Anyway, here I am in Kathmandu, in an Internet shop near Durbar Square, recovered from the flight and also, it seems, from the cold which was bugging me for about a month before the holiday. This happened before, when I moved to Australia - possibly moving to a warmer climate has something to do with it. It's about 20 degrees C here, pleasantly warm, and sunny.
One highlight of the trip so far was the view of the Himalayas from the flight in. Sort of amazing, to see the snow-clad peaks rising from the clouds in the distance. Other interesting things of note - cows wandering in the street; little streetside shrines, of Ganesh, Bhairab (the 'destructive' manifestation of Shiva) and other Hindu deities; curry for breakfast; Durbar Square itself, a collection of temples and little sidestreets full of all kinds of stuff - shops, and houses.
In the local news, the Maoist rebellion is ongoing. Despite the US State Dept. issuing a warning not to visit Nepal, the Maoists are -not- targetting foreigners, and in fact organised trekking groups in the Himalayas seem to have reached some accommodation with them where they pay a small 'tax' to the Maoists on passing through their territory. (As the trekkers provide employment to local people, it's possible that the Maoists deem them to be politically acceptable). There are reports, however, of local farmers being forced to donate food to the Maoists, and of the Maoists denying local young people the right to travel to India (a country which in the past has provided employment to Nepalese youth). Also reports of the Indian authorities, in turn, treating those Nepalese youngsters who do manage to make the trip as suspected Maoists and returning them to the country!
What motivates the Maoists? Is there any evidence of support from China? Or did they create themselves, despite taking Mao as an inspiration? Well, only the other day the British Chief of Staff visited Nepal, and yesterday the US State Dept. declared the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) to be a 'terrorist group'. This following on from its travel advice to US citizens not to visit Nepal earlier in the week. The Maoists seem to be a breakaway faction of the more mainstream, Communist Party of Nepal-Unified Marxist-Leninist. Nepal is one of the very few countries in the world (along with Chile) which has had an essentially Marxist national government which came to power through the ballot box (of course, several countries - such as France - have had Communist Parties participating as junior partners in elected coalition governments and several others - such as India - have had Communist governments elected at a regional or state level).
For most of the twentieth century, Nepal was an absolute monarchy, and in fact was completely closed off to foreigners until 1951. Historically, Nepal has been dominated by two families - the royal family and the Ranas. More on the Ranas here. The Ranas were an aristocratic clan who dominated ministerial posts following the Kot Massacre of their political rivals, committed by one of their number. It was only in the late Fifties, following Indian independence and the revolution in China (and subsequent influx of Tibetan refugees to Nepal - an event which changed the demographic landscape), that Nepal's changed role as a 'buffer state' between the two uneasy giants of Asia allowed the royals - under King Tribhuvan - to regain their former position. When Tribhuvan died, his son continued to rule Nepal under the 'panchayat' - or 'consultative council' - system, whereby political parties were banned. So, historically, Nepal has been very closed, very hierarchical, much of this with a religious justification, and veyr poor.
In 1989, political unrest by both the Congress and Communist Parties meant that Nepal made further moves towards democracy. But even now, a number of parliamentarians are appointed by the king. Another issue is Nepal's very rigid caste system - and in particular the marginalisation of the lower castes and untouchables (Dalits) in areas such as education (many Dalits are completely unaware of the organisations which work on their behalf, and in fact there is a current news story of a lower-caste boy and upper-caste girl who have been banned from their village for having an affair; this with the support of the majority of the villagers, and with the father of the girl making death threats against the boy; despite caste discrimination being illegal in Nepal, there doesn't seem to be anything the authorities can do about this!). The royal massacre of has given the Maoists a further impetus. Finally, corruption is an issue - it is believed that until 1989 up to 50 percent of all aid to Nepal may have been routinely creamed off by officials and members of the royal family; it is also suspected that Nepalese royals may have played a role in the illegal traffic of Nepal's artistic treasures.
The trip over was quite pleasant, despite six hour stopover in Abu Dhabi. Abu Dhabi airport was pleasant enough, and rather manic even at 2 in the morning (something to do with Ramadan perhaps?), but it was a stopover I could have done without.
Anyway, here I am in Kathmandu, in an Internet shop near Durbar Square, recovered from the flight and also, it seems, from the cold which was bugging me for about a month before the holiday. This happened before, when I moved to Australia - possibly moving to a warmer climate has something to do with it. It's about 20 degrees C here, pleasantly warm, and sunny.
One highlight of the trip so far was the view of the Himalayas from the flight in. Sort of amazing, to see the snow-clad peaks rising from the clouds in the distance. Other interesting things of note - cows wandering in the street; little streetside shrines, of Ganesh, Bhairab (the 'destructive' manifestation of Shiva) and other Hindu deities; curry for breakfast; Durbar Square itself, a collection of temples and little sidestreets full of all kinds of stuff - shops, and houses.
In the local news, the Maoist rebellion is ongoing. Despite the US State Dept. issuing a warning not to visit Nepal, the Maoists are -not- targetting foreigners, and in fact organised trekking groups in the Himalayas seem to have reached some accommodation with them where they pay a small 'tax' to the Maoists on passing through their territory. (As the trekkers provide employment to local people, it's possible that the Maoists deem them to be politically acceptable). There are reports, however, of local farmers being forced to donate food to the Maoists, and of the Maoists denying local young people the right to travel to India (a country which in the past has provided employment to Nepalese youth). Also reports of the Indian authorities, in turn, treating those Nepalese youngsters who do manage to make the trip as suspected Maoists and returning them to the country!
What motivates the Maoists? Is there any evidence of support from China? Or did they create themselves, despite taking Mao as an inspiration? Well, only the other day the British Chief of Staff visited Nepal, and yesterday the US State Dept. declared the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) to be a 'terrorist group'. This following on from its travel advice to US citizens not to visit Nepal earlier in the week. The Maoists seem to be a breakaway faction of the more mainstream, Communist Party of Nepal-Unified Marxist-Leninist. Nepal is one of the very few countries in the world (along with Chile) which has had an essentially Marxist national government which came to power through the ballot box (of course, several countries - such as France - have had Communist Parties participating as junior partners in elected coalition governments and several others - such as India - have had Communist governments elected at a regional or state level).
For most of the twentieth century, Nepal was an absolute monarchy, and in fact was completely closed off to foreigners until 1951. Historically, Nepal has been dominated by two families - the royal family and the Ranas. More on the Ranas here. The Ranas were an aristocratic clan who dominated ministerial posts following the Kot Massacre of their political rivals, committed by one of their number. It was only in the late Fifties, following Indian independence and the revolution in China (and subsequent influx of Tibetan refugees to Nepal - an event which changed the demographic landscape), that Nepal's changed role as a 'buffer state' between the two uneasy giants of Asia allowed the royals - under King Tribhuvan - to regain their former position. When Tribhuvan died, his son continued to rule Nepal under the 'panchayat' - or 'consultative council' - system, whereby political parties were banned. So, historically, Nepal has been very closed, very hierarchical, much of this with a religious justification, and veyr poor.
In 1989, political unrest by both the Congress and Communist Parties meant that Nepal made further moves towards democracy. But even now, a number of parliamentarians are appointed by the king. Another issue is Nepal's very rigid caste system - and in particular the marginalisation of the lower castes and untouchables (Dalits) in areas such as education (many Dalits are completely unaware of the organisations which work on their behalf, and in fact there is a current news story of a lower-caste boy and upper-caste girl who have been banned from their village for having an affair; this with the support of the majority of the villagers, and with the father of the girl making death threats against the boy; despite caste discrimination being illegal in Nepal, there doesn't seem to be anything the authorities can do about this!). The royal massacre of has given the Maoists a further impetus. Finally, corruption is an issue - it is believed that until 1989 up to 50 percent of all aid to Nepal may have been routinely creamed off by officials and members of the royal family; it is also suspected that Nepalese royals may have played a role in the illegal traffic of Nepal's artistic treasures.
